Brijuni National Park: Where Roman Ruins Meet Safari Adventures in Croatia

Brijuni National Park isn’t your typical island getaway. This archipelago off the coast of Istria offers a raw and captivating blend of history, nature, and unexpected encounters.

While I was exploring Pula solo, my wife, Gordana (former Yugoslavian), wouldn’t stop talking about Brijuni. She told me it was this exclusive island paradise where the former president Tito used to hang out, hosting everyone from Hollywood stars to politicians, world leaders, and monarchs. Apparently, they’d bring him all sorts of crazy gifts, including exotic animals. Intrigued? You damn right I was.

This Brijuni National Park guide takes you beyond the tourist brochures. We’ll explore crumbling Roman ruins, encounter zebras and elephants roaming free, and delve into the legacy of Tito, via his museum, the enigmatic leader who made Brijuni his playground. Get ready for an adventure as captivating as the islands themselves.

A Glimpse into Brijuni’s Past

Brijuni’s story goes back quite a bit, paying witness to the rise and fall of empires. From the Romans, drawn to the islands’ beauty, building a luxurious villa complex with thermal baths and temples—you know how they roll—some of which you can still see today. Later, the Venetians left their architectural mark with these imposing castles and charming villages.

In the late 19th century, Brijuni was transformed into an exclusive health resort by Paul Kupelwieser, an Austrian industrialist. His influence is reflected in the grand Hotel Neptun, built in 1910, with its old-world elegance and charm.

But let’s face it, the most intriguing chapter in Brijuni’s history is probably its connection to Josip Broz Tito, the former Yugoslav president. He made Brijuni his private retreat, hosting a parade of world leaders, dignitaries, and celebrities on the islands. I’ll talk about this later when I talk about the museum, but he had lavish parties with Hollywood stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, diplomatic meetings with heads of state, and even a visit from Queen Elizabeth II herself. Tito’s era also saw the construction of Hotel Karmen in the 1960s, showcasing a mid-century modern aesthetic.

Tito’s legacy on Brijuni is undeniable. He transformed the islands into a symbol of peace and international cooperation. His personal touch is still evident today, from his preserved Cadillac to the aforementioned museum dedicated to his life and the island’s history.

Today, Brijuni National Park stands as a testament to its rich and varied past. It’s a place of ancient ruins, the echoes of Tito’s lavish gatherings, and elephants.

Getting to Brijuni National Park

To get to Brijuni from Pula, you have two main options: join a boat tour that departs directly from Pula or depart from the mainland town of Fažana. Option 1 involves more time on the boat, while Option 2 involves more time in a car or bus.

Option 2: Departing from Fažana

First, you’ll need to reach the mainland town of Fažana.

• From Pula:
  • Bus: You can easily reach Fažana from Pula by bus. The journey takes approximately 20-30 minutes, and buses depart regularly from Pula’s main bus station.
  • Taxi or Car: Alternatively, you can take a taxi or drive from Pula to Fažana, which takes about 15-20 minutes.
• From Rovinj: (Since I spent a day in Rovinj, I’ve included options from there as well!)
  • Bus: You can take a direct bus from Rovinj to Fažana. The journey takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. (Link to the bus company website, if available.)
  • Taxi or Car: Alternatively, you can hire a taxi or drive from Rovinj to Fažana, which takes about 45 minutes. (If you have any recommendations for taxi services or car rental companies, include them here.)
• From other locations:
  • Bus or Car: Fažana is accessible by bus or car from other towns in Istria and Croatia.
• Ferry to Brijuni: Once you arrive in Fažana, you’ll need to catch a ferry to Veliki Brijun, the largest island in the Brijuni archipelago. Ferries depart regularly from the Fažana waterfront. (Include information on ferry schedules, ticket prices, and where to purchase tickets.)

Places To Stay In Brijuni

Exploring Brijuni National Park: A Day Trip Itinerary

Morning

Arrival and Orientation: Stepping off the boat at Veliki Brijun felt like entering a whole new world. The tranquility was immediate and noticeable, a stark contrast to the bustling Pula mainland. I could instantly see why Gordana had raved about this place and why Tito chose it as his haven for six months of the year.

Near the ferry dock, you’ll find the visitor center, a small building with helpful staff and informative displays about the island’s history and natural wonders. Here, you can grab a map and decide how you want to explore. You can wander independently, following the paths at your own pace, or you can hop aboard the Brijuni train for a guided tour of the island’s highlights.

Since I wanted to make the most of my day trip and learn as much as possible, I opted for the train tour. Plus, the idea of a leisurely ride through this island paradise was too tempting to resist. (Come on, yes I like hiking, but it was hot!)

As the little tourist-style train rolled through Veliki Brijun, I was struck by the contrasting landscapes. On one hand, the fresh sea salt smell of the Adriatic was at my back as the train pulled away, but the island also had stretches that reminded me of the African Savannah, with its golden grasses and those iconic umbrella-shaped trees – Acacias, I believe. This unexpected, weird blend of coastal and savanna-like scenery definitely makes Brijuni’s natural beauty unique.

Brijuni Train Tour

All Aboard: The train, with its open sides and protective roof, is like a safari jeep for exploring Brijuni’s diverse landscapes. As we chugged along, the fresh sea air whipped through my hair, carrying the scent of pine and salty ocean spray. The rhythmic chugging of the engine and the calls of exotic birds created a unique soundtrack for our adventure. The tour guide, a Brijuni enthusiast with a twinkle in his eye, pointed out hidden details and shared fascinating stories about the island’s history and ecosystem.

Verige Bay

Coastal Views: Our first stop was Verige Bay, a picturesque inlet with crystal-clear turquoise waters. Suddenly, the smell of salt from the Adriatic hit me, a reminder that I wasn’t actually on safari in the African savanna but exploring an island paradise off the Croatian coast. It’s stunning!

Safari Park Adventure

One of the highlights of the train tour is the stop at Brijuni’s Safari Park. The train pauses here for about 15 minutes, giving you ample time to observe the exotic animals roaming freely in their spacious enclosures. And yes, this is where you’ll find those magnificent Indian elephants!

Our guide told us a captivating story about Lanka, claiming she was the last surviving elephant from Tito’s time. While it turns out there are actually two, Lanka and Sony, both gifted to Tito by Indira Gandhi, the story highlights the unique and exotic gifts that world leaders bestowed upon the Yugoslav president.

Here you can buy water, juice or some snacks from the little cafe!

Dinosaur Footprints

After the excitement of the Safari Park, the train takes you to the site where dinosaur footprints have been discovered! These prehistoric tracks, etched into the rocks, offer a glimpse into Brijuni’s ancient past, long before humans inhabited the island. Yeah, this immediately brought me back to a little movie called Jurassic Park!

Afternoon In Brijuni

Tito’s Museum

At this point, we were finished with the train and would be walking the rest of the way back! But for now, time to step into the world of Josip Broz Tito at his former summer residence, now a fascinating museum.

Within a set time frame, we were free to explore the Museum at our own pace after our tour guide gave us a bit of history starting with his 1953 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, gleaming under its protective glass case. This iconic car, a symbol of luxury and power, adds another dimension to understanding Tito’s personality and Brijuni’s glamorous past.

While inside you can explore the rooms where he hosted world leaders and celebrities, wander through his private library, and admire his collection of gifts from around the globe, including a miniature train from Walt Disney and a white stallion from the Soviet Union.

The museum also houses a collection of taxidermied animals, a poignant reminder of the exotic gifts bestowed upon Tito by visiting dignitaries. Sadly, many of these animals couldn’t adapt to Brijuni’s climate and habitat, and their preserved forms now serve as a testament to both the island’s unique history and the challenges of introducing species to new environments. Among the collection, you’ll find a giraffe, a tiger, and even a lion.

However, some of the animals gifted to Tito have thrived on Brijuni. The most notable examples are the two Indian elephants, Sony and Lanka, whom we met earlier. The museum offers a glimpse into the life and legacy of this enigmatic leader who made Brijuni his playground, a place where history and extravagance intertwined.

Church of St. German

My tour group made its way to the Church of St. German, a 15th-century gem nestled within a wooded area. The church is quite small, but has a certain charm—this blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectural features.

Inside, you’ll find a beautiful Roman mosaic, likely a fragment from one of the villas in the Roman villa complex on Brijuni. Research tells me that these mosaics were a popular form of art and decoration in Roman times, often used to adorn floors and walls in wealthy homes.

You’ll also notice a medieval fresco, likely depicting a religious scene or procession. Apparently, frescoes were a common form of mural painting in churches and other important buildings during the medieval period.

Venetian Castle and Tower

Across from the Church of St. Germain are the ruins of the Venetian Castle, a reminder of the Venetian Republic’s influence on Brijuni. You can climb the tower for panoramic views of the island and the surrounding coastline.

Skulptura Caritas ili Majka s djecom

On the way to the Quarry, we pass by the “Caritas” sculpture, also known as “Mother with Children.” This touching artwork, created by Vanja Radauš in 1953, depicts a mother embracing her children, symbolizing love and protection.

Quarry Quest

Just a short stroll from the Church of St. German, you’ll encounter a unique landscape feature: the remnants of a quarry.

This excavated area reveals the layers of Brijuni’s limestone bedrock, a testament to the island’s long history of human activity and resource extraction. The quarry offers a fascinating glimpse into Brijuni’s industrial past and adds another dimension to the island’s story.

Church of St. Rochus

Near the edge of the medieval settlement stands the votive Church of St. Rochus, protector against the plague. It was erected in 1504 after one of many epidemics that ravaged the archipelago and caused drastic population declines. The inscription “AP 1504” on the front of the church stands for “Anno pestis” – year of the plague. The west-facing door indicates the direction from which the plague arrived—across the sea from Venice.

Nowadays, the church is a gallery space for occasional exhibitions.

The Old Olive Tree

As we headed back to the dock, we passed by The Old Olive tree. This olive tree, is estimated to be over 1,600 years old. Jeez! The gnarled and majestic tree has witnessed centuries of history, from Roman emperors to Yugoslav presidents, and its presence adds a touch of timeless wonder to Brijuni’s landscape.

Oh, if this tree could talk…..

Pine Tree Alley

From here, we stroll through the enchanting Pine Tree Alley, where towering pine trees create a canopy overhead. It Sorta reminds me of the Dark Hedges in Ireland and that scene from Game Of Thrones.

The Boathouse

As you approach the ferry dock, you’ll pass by the Boathouse, a charming building with a rich history. This structure, once used to store boats and fishing equipment, now serves as a reminder of Brijuni’s maritime past. Honestly till now, I’ve never seen what is essentially a garage for boats. Very cool.

Additional Activities

• Delve Deeper into History:
  • Byzantine Castrum: Venture beyond the typical tourist trail and discover the Byzantine Castrum, a 6th-century fortified settlement nestled amidst the island’s lush greenery. Explore the remnants of defensive walls, towers, and a gate, imagining the lives of those who sought refuge within its walls during turbulent times. (Note that this site is not included in the standard train tour, encouraging independent exploration.)
  • St. Mary’s Basilica: Step back in time at St. Mary’s Basilica, a 6th-century basilica that stands as a testament to Brijuni’s early Christian heritage. Admire the remnants of this ancient church, including its mosaic floors and architectural fragments, and imagine the echoes of prayers and chants that once filled its hallowed halls. (Note that this site is not included in the standard train tour, suggesting a visit for those with a keen interest in history.)
• Embrace the Island’s Natural Beauty:
  • Hiking: Lace up your hiking boots and embark on a journey through Brijuni’s diverse landscapes. Follow trails that wind through fragrant pine forests, ascend to scenic viewpoints overlooking the Adriatic, and discover hidden coves with pristine beaches. For breathtaking panoramic views, hike to Viewpoint Javornik. From this vantage point, you can admire the entire Brijuni archipelago, the Istrian coastline, and the sparkling Adriatic Sea.
  • Cycling: Rent a bicycle and explore the island at your own pace, feeling the wind in your hair as you pedal along coastal paths and through verdant meadows. Discover hidden corners of the island and enjoy the freedom of two-wheeled exploration.
• Tee Off in Paradise:
  • Golfing: For a unique golfing experience, tee off at Brijuni’s scenic golf course. Enjoy stunning views of the Adriatic Sea as you navigate the challenging fairways and manicured greens. This is a truly unforgettable way to combine your love of golf with the beauty of Brijuni’s natural landscape.
• Explore at Your Own Pace:
  • Golf Cart Rentals: If you prefer a more leisurely mode of transportation, rent a golf cart and explore the island with ease. This allows you to cover more ground and discover hidden gems at your own pace, stopping to admire the scenery or capture photos whenever you like.

Planning Your Brijuni National Park Adventure

Brijuni National Park is a truly unique destination that offers a captivating blend of history, nature, and unexpected encounters. From exploring ancient ruins and encountering exotic wildlife to relaxing on pristine beaches and delving into the legacy of Tito, Brijuni has something for everyone.

So, what are you waiting for? Start planning your Brijuni adventure today! Book your boat tour, pack your bags, and get ready to experience the magic of this Croatian island paradise.

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